jimmy jeans part 4

because of my frustration with the last pattern i attempted i wanted to give it a fresh start.  in my research i came across the blog taylortailor.  he has a couple posts of how he made his own jeans as well, and in fact he even made the pattern from the same "patternmaking for fashion designers: menswear" that i have.  in light of how amazing his jeans were i decided to start from scratch again with a new sloper.
so, i drew up a new pattern.
this one i wanted to try out making 2 slopers at the same time to contrast and compare.  i drew up a regular sloper like the one the book instructs, and then altered that so that the outer edge of the pattern would line up with a straight edge-- so theoretically that pattern would be for a selvedge edge denim.  unfortunately, after several attempts at fitting it wasn't working out.  i was trying to make the sloper as i would actually fit my jeans--with no ease.  bad idea!  having no ease in the sloper didn't allow any room for adjustments when it came to fine tuning the pattern.
ugh.  that means drafting a new pattern with 1" ease in the hips and waist.  back to the drawing board.

although, it was interesting to compare the new front pant sloper to the original sloper i made from another book i have called "how to make sewing patterns" (a long time ago).  that book was geared toward women.  and all of a sudden it became abundantly clear how having a book geared towards men's patternmaking is important.  the new pattern is on the left and the old one on the right.  notice the amount of "junk room".

 so here's the new new pattern.  the blue line is what the book instructs you to draft for a jeans sloper.  and then it asks you to alter that draft (with the green line) for a "5 pocket jean pattern".  um, why wouldn't i just do this in the first place?  anyway, so far so good.  but, i measured the crotch length and it was an inch shorter than it was supposed to be so i added it onto the front crotch curve (the seam line on the inside of my legs came a little too forward anyway.)

in making this draft, i also noticed that i measured wrong in drawing one of the lines the first time i tried drafting this pattern, so that would have screwed me up anyway.

here's my first sloper of the new new pattern.  i knew going into it that it wasn't going to fit and i was ok with that.  i decided the first time i started over that i was going to take my time, not get frustrated, and really try to pay attention and learn what i was doing and why.  that's the interesting thing about doing this project at the same time as having 2 jobs and only a couple of hours a week to work in the studio.  it forced me to work a little bit, then step back, think about, and understand what i was doing instead of just barreling forward with my head down just to get it done as i probably would have been doing if i had lots of time in the studio.

the fit in the front was pretty good, the butt is obviously the big problem, and there was a about an inch that i could pinch out from the waist, so i trimmed the pattern down for starters.

tbc...